By Dale Carlon

It is a fact that we have high winds here and we must stake newly-planted trees in order for them to survive. What is also a fact is that when trees are left staked too long they suffer significantly and rarely live to maturity in the landscape.

What staking does

When you first purchase your tree be sure and remove the stake that is already attached. This is known as the nursery stake and is intended to keep the tree straight during transport. If left on it will rub against the trunk and open wounds in the bark, allowing for insects and disease to enter. Also, with the nursery stake being so close to the tree trunk, the tree thinks it is another tree competing for sunlight and will grow away from it as it would in the forest to get to open sunlight. So when the stake is finally removed the tree bends over and never recovers. Studies have shown that the trunk cells on the stake side have shrunk and those on the non-staked side are longer making a bend in the tree that will never go away. Using wire to attach the tree to the stakes causes damage as well. When the wire cuts into the trunk it stops the flow of water and nutrients. The trunk can be burned by the black hose that wraps the trunk too, move it every so often to prevent this.

Ever wonder why a fishing pole is fatter at the bottom that it is at the tip? This is so that the load of the fish on the line is equally distributed along the length of the rod. Without the taper the rod would snap in the middle. The same principal works for trees, we need for the trunk to be fatter at the ground so the tree can handle wind loads. We call this trunk taper. The tree gains trunk taper as it rocks back and forth in the wind, also the rocking allows the root system to work its’ way farther into the soil. Envision the soil being loosened around the roots as they pull back and forth, giving them the chance to better penetrate the native soil. A solidly staked tree will not have trunk taper and will not be well rooted in.

How to stake

We can use either metal fence posts or wooden stakes to support new trees. The stakes must be driven into the ground outside of the rootball in native soil.  The connecting ties to the tree should be made of soft material that does not harm the trunk. Many nurseries carry a tie called “cinch tie” that is made of rubber and is easy to install. Set the stakes at an east-west orientation to do a better job of battling the winds. Attach the ties at the trunk just below where the branches start, and be prepared to move the ties a little as the season progresses. Do not rigidly stake the tree, allow the trunk to move a few inches to promote taper.

Go forth and plant!

There is no doubt that staking is necessary, the problem is that they are left on too long. All stakes should be removed within one year of planting. While they are staked be sure to move the ties where they attach to prevent burning. By all means get them off after one year!!

For more information check out communityforestry.org and please friend me on Facebook at Dale Carlon Consulting LLC.

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by Dale Carlon

With all of the planning and preparations that we have done so far to ensure our new trees success we can’t stop once it’s in the ground. The first growing season is critical – things we do now, both right and wrong, have impacts on the tree for decades to come, if indeed it gets the chance to last for decades.

Irrigation

The most common question I get is, “How much water do I apply?”  As always the type of soil you have and the environment the tree is in makes a huge difference. However, for the sake of this discussion let’s assume that the tree was planted in a good planting mix with average exposure (full sun, full wind). After the planting we have built a berm around the tree forming a saucer. There is an inner ring that prevents water from soaking the base of the trunk, so our saucer looks more like a doughnut. For the first growing season the soil should be just kept moist, not soaking wet. A good rule of thumb is that you fill the doughnut up three times a week. If you install drip put three one gallon per hour emitters about one foot out from the trunk set to run for one hour three days a week.

Fertilizing

The metabolism of a newly planted tree is stressed from being dug up at the grower, transported to the nursery, and then sitting in a black pot on asphalt at the nursery waiting for you to buy it. Adding fertilizers at planting speeds up the metabolism and adds stress. When we have used a good planting soil the nutrients are there and no additional fertilizers should be applied. In about three growing seasons you can start fertilizing with a deep root feeder, opening up the soil and injecting a balanced set of nutrients.

Pruning

It is a myth that newly planted trees should be pruned. Again, reducing stress is important. Pruning makes the tree work on healing wounds when it should be making topgrowth and root system. Only prune off any dead or broken branches, wait till the third growing season to start pruning.

Staking

The argument about staking is a complex one that I will describe in detail in Greno #5 as there is a lot to understand. For today however, let’s admit that we live in a high wind area. As I write this the winds are at about 60 miles an hour in Reno. We do need to stake. Set your stakes outside the rootball so they penetrate the native soil. Orient them in a west/east configuration. Use a soft material to connect to the trunk, and take them off after the first season.

For more information check www.communityforestry.org and please friend me on Facebook at Dale Carlon Consulting LLC, you will enjoy my daily tree tips, and I love to answer questions there.

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